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Interesting History of the Cane Corso Mastiff The Cane Corso or also called the Italian Mastiff is considered as one of the best personal protection dogs. It is a large Italian breed of dog and for years, it has been valued highly in Italy as a companion, hunter of wild pigs, and a guard dog. It is a powerful dog that can weigh up to 120 pounds. It has a large head and a heavy body that is rectangular in shape. It has a strong build but has an elegant appearance as well. This breed comes in different colors such as black, red, gray, slate, and deer fawn. Cane Corso dogs are known to be docile and affectionate to their owners. They are also loving with children as well as to families and they can easily be trained as well. This dog breed has a storied history as a hunter and a guard dog. Read on if you want to know more about how they became one of the best dogs that can provide you and your family protection. The Breed Name The name “Cane Corso” based on history, is as much as an adjective as it is as a noun. In Italian, the word cane means dog and the word corso is from the Latin word “Cohors” which means protector or bodyguard. The name Cane Corso wasn’t used until around 1137 AD. In the past, it was known by names with provincial connotations such as Dogo di Puglia. But Cane Corso became a wider term that comprises the breed’s diffusion all through Italy and Sicily. In fact, it was held in such high regard that there are several metaphors as well as antidotes associated with its name like “can corso” which means a man of proud aspect and attitude, and “je’nucors” which means a young man who was the essence of moral and physical virtue. Ancient History The Cane Corso is known to be a descendant of a dog that was used in Ancient Rome in hunting and warfare. There is an art from 700 BC that shows a dog similar to the Cane Corso we know today assisting in the hunt. This proves that the dog breed has been around for a very long time. They had a major role in Roman warfare and that was being used as piriferi, which was a practice where buckets of flaming oil were strapped to their backs and sent to the front lines of the enemy. They were warriors with no hesitations when it comes to fighting. As a Farmhand and a Hunter After the Roman wars, the Cane Corso became a dog that was devoted to hunting, farming, and guarding. Through the wars, they were taught to be extremely versatile and this versatility became helpful in being dogs who guarded livestock and farm buildings. Another farm duty they had was assisting in the breeding of swine. After the swine gives birth, a sow would usually try to hide her litter and it was the Cane Corso’s job to find and incapacitate the sow which will allow the farmer to come and gather her litter. The Cane Corso was also used in keeping wild boars under control. It was known to protect its masters when a wild boar appears and went on attack. They also helped with cattle by incapacitating a bull in order to separate it from the herd. They would just clamp down on the bull’s nose or ear which was later became known as “bull baiting.” Their versatility also allowed them to adapt to the continually changing roles over the years when agriculture has diminished. That was the time their roles have emerged and they became family protectors and companions. Aside from protecting people and animals from wild boars, the Cane Corso dogs also hunted them. Since hunting wild boards was dangerous, the Cane Corso made it safer for a hunter. They were also used to hunt porcupines which was dangerous for them because of the porcupine’s sharp quills. Decline of the Cane Corso However, the economy and farms changed because of the World Wars. These brought disarray to the regions’ rural activities which were the livelihood of the Cane Corsos. After the second World War, work decreased for the versatile Cane Corso and there was little to no food available for them. There were also natural disasters such as flooding and landslides that occurred during that time along with poverty. The Cane Corso’s golden age was over and by the 1970’s, their breed was nearly extinct. Recovery of the Cane Corso There were grown up Italian men who had seen the hardworking Cane Corso in their childhoods. They wondered what happened to the once thriving breed. They did some research and after that, the breeding of the Cane Corso started again. They worked together to locate some of the dogs in remote villages. In 1994, the breed had an official ENCI recognition and an FCI recognition in 1996. In 2010, Cane Corsos were recognized by the American Kennel Club and the breed's popularity continued to grow. Conclusion After knowing the history behind the Cane Corso Mastiff breed, it’s now easy to understand why they make such good protection dogs. Their history of hard work and versatility, as well as their strength, shows that this breed is truly ancient and certainly has wisdom. It is a ferocious breed but also smart and can make a loving companion as well. These characteristics are usually what people are looking for in pets that will stay by their side. With such a powerful breed make sure you choose products that are built well and very durable. When traveling a 4Knines Seat Cover or Cargo Liner will help protect your car from drool, dirt and claw marks. They also make heavy duty dog bowls with a non-slip bottom! Chaz Elban Chaz Elban is a founder and blogger for https://thepuppyplace.org, a blog focused on puppies and dogs in general. Chaz has 3 dogs including a Miniature Schnauzer, Morikepoo and a Havanese. Chaz grew up on a farm and has many fond memories of taking care of and playing with his many dogs on the farm. You can contact Chaz at info@mentalitch.com.
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Why Do Dogs Bark at Night and What Are The Best Solutions? Reasons Dogs Bark at Night and How to Curb Excessive Barking Once you bring your dog home, don’t expect it not to bark. It is a natural thing that a dog should do. However, there are times when this habit crosses the red line. This usually happens when the dog barks excessively at night. Once it reaches to this point, you need to treat it as a problem which needs an immediate solution. In this article, we are going to look at the reasons why dogs bark excessively at night and what you can do to stop this habit. Why Dogs Bark Excessively At Night? Dogs bark as a way of passing a message vocally (1). They send different messages depending on the situation. Here are some of the reasons why dogs bark at night. 1. To Guard Their Territory Dogs tend to be very protective. They will jealously guard their space against invaders whether it is a human being or an animal. The presence of an uninvited guest in the yard will make the dog to bark aggressively. 2. Frightened / Fear Dogs bark when they sense a looming threat. They will bark when they hear or even see something that can threaten their life. 3. Separation Anxiety At night, you are likely to be separated from your dog. This separation can trigger depression in them and make them bark compulsively. 4. Boredom With no one to play with or nothing to do, your dog will start feeling lonely and bored. A dog can express this feeling by barking continuously at night. 5. Looking for Attention Dogs like courting for attention. At night, you are not always available to be with your dog or give him special treats. You will not be there to give him a message, play with him or take him for a walk. The dog may opt to bark as a way of attracting your attention. 6. Minimal Exercises During the Day One of the benefits of physical exercise is they help a dog to remain calm afterwards. If dogs do little or even don’t exercise during the day, they will become aggressive at night. One way of showing their aggressiveness is by barking at night. How to Stop Your Dog From Barking at Night? Here are some tips that you can use to stop your dog from barking at night: 1. Get Dog Toys Dog toys can help to deal with the problem of boredom in pups. If your dog has a habit of barking at night because he is bored, consider getting a food-dispensing dog toy. These toys come in various designs and can keep the hound busy until he gets tired. A tired dog will sleep instead of making any noise. Ensure that the toy has minimal chance of causing any harm to your canine. The article on choosing the best toy for pit pulls will be useful for you, regardless of whether you own a pit bull or any other breed. 2. Do Not Reward Him As we have already stated, some dogs bark because they want to attract undivided attention. The will stop doing so once you attend to them. The best solution for such a situation is to stop being a push-over. Do not respond to his demands. For instance, if you are used to giving the mongrel some food every time that it barks, stop giving him. With time, he will realize that barking is not the only way to get what he wants. He will tone down on this habit. However, do not be harsh on your canine when doing so. 3. Get Anti Bark Device An anti-bark device provides an innovative way of stopping your dog from barking at night. You can use it as an alternative to the time-consuming dog training. It is also safer than the shock collars as it won’t stress up your hound (2). Instead of triggering some shocks, an anti-barking device releases ultrasound that can only be heard by the dog. He will stop barking after hearing this sound. 4. Adequate Exercises Spare some time during the day and take the dog out to play. Apart from staying healthy and fit, exercises help the dog to release excess energy (3). At night, your dog will be too tired and will spend more time sleeping. Conclusion Nobody wants to have a noisy dog at night. First, it will make you lose your precious sleep. It is impossible to catch a sleep with such noise in your yard or even apartment. Secondly, you will always at loggerheads with your neighbors over the noise. You can apply the tips above to prevent your dog from barking excessively at night. Ruby Smith Ruby is the proud owner of Pet So Fun. She is also responsible for the abundant content creation on the website. She knows that there are millions of pet owners looking for the right kind of information online. And this is where her expertise lies. Smith writes about pet care health and fitness along with the best pet product recommendations. There is nothing on her blog that doesn’t encourage others to create a healthy and friendly environment for their pets. Homepage: https://petsofun.com | Facebook: https://www.facebook.com/petsofun | Pinterest: https://www.pinterest.com/petsofun | Twitter: https://twitter.com/PetSoFun References: (1) https://pets.webmd.com/dogs/guide/understanding-why-dogs-bark#1 (2) https://www.apbc.org.uk/articles/shockcollars (3) https://pets.webmd.com/dogs/guide/exercise-dogs#1 :|zpendofcontent|:
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Why Fostering-To-Adopt a Dog Is the Best Way to Find Your Perfect Dog! Are you ready to adopt a dog, but not sure what type of dog would be a good fit for your family? Are you worried if the dog will be good with your kids or maybe even get along with your current dog? Adopting a dog isn’t just about how cute he is, we should be considering the dog's size, personality, energy level, and so much more. Adopting a dog from a rescue can be a bit of a guessing game, even when a dog comes from a foster home it’s sometimes difficult to know if that dog is a good fit for your home. Foster-to-adopt a dog programs are becoming more popular as rescues realize it is a great way to match dogs with the right owners. These programs can actually reduce the number of dogs being returned to the rescue since the adopter has already “test-driven” the dog. But what does it really mean to foster-to-adopt a dog? What Is a Foster-To-Adopt Program? Many rescues rely on people willing to donate their time, their homes and big hearts to become foster homes for dogs. A foster home will be the dog's safe place to live until a permanent home is found. Most of the time, a dog will be in a foster home for a short period of time until a permanent home is found to adopt him. In a foster-to-adopt program, the foster family has the option to adopt their foster dog before he goes up for adoption. Not all rescues have this option, so it’s important to research and find a rescue near you that allows foster families to adopt. What Happens If I Foster a Dog to Adopt and I Decide I Don’t Want To Adopt Him? This scenario is exactly why fostering-to-adopt is such a great program! If you realize your foster dog isn’t the dog you dreamed of, then the dog goes up for adoption to find his perfect forever home. Just because he isn’t a good match for you, doesn’t mean there isn’t a good match for him out there somewhere. Once he is adopted then you find another dog to foster. With each dog you foster, you will learn something new. We fostered 5 dogs before finding the dog we wanted to adopt, and with each foster dog, we became more knowledgeable and better dog owners. My Story of Fostering and Adopting Our Dog, Ginger We personally started fostering so that I can teach my, then 9-year-old, daughter about the responsibility of different dog breeds and personalities. Even though we had a family dog, she wanted a dog of her own since she was 3 years old. We fostered a big range of dog breeds and ages over a two-year span. Several of them could have been a good match for our family, and others were a “no-way”! Our entire family learned so much from our fostering experience. After two years of fostering dogs, we were ready to find a dog for my daughter. I saw a German Shepherd mix dog come through the list of dogs needing a foster home and thought she could be the one. After fostering her for a couple of months, we got to know her personality and quirks and decided we would adopt her. Ginger isn’t perfect by any means, we struggle with resource guarding and allergies, but she is perfect for us. Finding A Foster-To-Adopt Program Not all rescues will allow their foster families to adopt a foster dog, so it’s important to do your research and find the right match. And not all rescues have a name for it, so be specific when asking if they have a foster-to-adopt program. There are even some humane societies jumping in on fostering programs because they are overfilled with dogs. Talk with friends, neighbors, co-workers, and Google for reviews. Not all rescues are created equal and you want to make sure you connect with a reputable group. Good luck and I hope you find your perfect dog for your family! Fostering and adopting can be such a rewarding experience. You may even find after adopting you want to continue to foster more dogs. And remember, no dog is perfect, but a dog can be perfect for your family. Debi McKee Debi McKee is the founder of RescueDogs101.com, foster home, and all-in-all dog fanatic. Debi’s mission is to guide you through every step of your dog journey, from adopting the perfect dog for you and your family, to training your dog and keeping your dog happy and healthy. Sign up for her free resource library of must-have resources, containing valuable downloads to help you in your dog journey.
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10 Things Our Dogs Would Say If They Could Talk If you are here, I would assume you are a dog lover? Dog lovers like myself have all had a moment or two where they wonder (especially in certain situations) what their dogs would say if they could speak. And I'm not talking about "woof woof," I mean really speak. Tell me I'm not alone here? I consider myself pretty darn good at reading the body language of a dog, especially my own. But there are still several times that they puzzle me. What are they thinking? What would they say to me right now if they could talk? When I think my dogs are looking at me with love in their eyes, are they actually thinking to themselves "OMG hooman don't you understand that your outfit doesn't match?!" Taking all that into consideration, I thought it would make a fun post outlining from my own perspective "10 Things Our Dogs Would Say If They Could Talk?" 1. "It's 4:30 am hooman, and I need to pee! Or I need to make you think I have to pee, but really, there is a super cute poodle that goes for early morning walks that I simply CANNOT miss out on smelling, so WAKE UP!" 2. "Boy, that steak you left sitting on the counter sure looks tasty. It would be a shame if... somehow it miraculously fell to the floor." 3. "Yay... same kibble as every other day of my life. Too much to ask for a different flavor once and a while?" 4. "Dear lord hooman, that outfit looks ridiculous on you." 5. "Why are you getting your shoes on? Are we going somewhere? A walk? A Car ride? Wait, why aren't you putting on my leash? Hey, you forgot to bring me with you! Where are you going? Have I done something wrong? Come back! Omg, she's never coming back. I have been abandoned by my own hooman! How dare she! How will I live? Who will feed me? I'm freaking out right now." 6. "Is that a car I hear? Could it be? IT IS!!! She came back to me! Omg omg omg omg she's home, she's home, omg omg. I thought you left meeeeee! Why did you leave me? Lets never fight again." 7. "So hooman if you'd like to listen and have a civilized conversation with me rather than treating me like some child, I'd really appreci........ was that a squirrel? SQUIRREL!" 8. "I'll never understand why you keep telling me not to bark at this guy in uniform who keeps pretending to drop envelopes in a little box. He clearly trespasses on our property daily, and is quite obviously planning his lifelong attack on our home." 9. "I don't like this cat. I will never like this cat. I don't know why you keep telling me its not evil. I mean, look at it. I can't even walk past it without it slapping me with those long sharp devil claws." 10. "Yes, I realize I have already peed on this tree. But what you fail to realize is since this morning exactly --sniff sniff-- 5 dogs have also peed on said tree. Which means I need to pee on it again to make sure my scent is the strongest." What do you guys think? Pretty bang on? Okay, personal question for those of you reading. Have you ever commentated for your dog? I do this on a regular basis, no joke. Mostly when I have company at my house. And it never fails, each and every time, we always end up laughing so hard it brings tears to your eyes. Have a little fun today, commentate for your dog and make a voice that you think would be fitting for your furry family member. I know, I know, it sounds silly. And it is! But that's the best part! So what are you waiting for? If your dog could talk, what do you think he would say? Jenna Drady Hi, I'm Jenna Drady AKA HuskyCrazed - author and creator of ownedbyahusky.ca. I am a mother of two beautiful daughters and of course my 3 huskies. Being a husky mom for a long duration of my life, I was inspired to begin writing about them. In doing so, I started doing massive research on dog behavior, and all things dog in general. I am inspired every day by my family, and love to bring my readers valuable information as well as a little laugh while I'm at it. I created my own business partnered with my lovely mother while blogging called Pawz N Clawz Jewelry N Things. We currently sell handmade jewelry with added pet charms, as well as a few dog toys too! As an animal rights activist, and huge believer in helping pets who have been stuck in shelters, we donate a portion of our sales to local shelters throughout Canada. :|zpendofcontent|:
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Enriching Your Dog’s Life With Homemade Food Toys Dog toys are a great way to feed and entertain your dog. Dogs need mental stimulation as much as they need physical exercise but sometimes they get bored with regular dog toys. When they play with a food toy, they are getting reinforced (when they get a piece of food) for playing with the toy, therefore the play often lasts longer. Some food toys also provide physical exercise because the dog pushes the toys around the house or yard. The downside of some of these food toys is that they can get expensive. However, some of the best food toys are homemade and can be far less expensive. One of my favorite food toys for the summer is the giant ice cube. The giant ice cube is very easy to make and can be used for dogs that have special diets. All you need to do is fill a plastic bowl with water or broth (any broth will work- chicken, beef, vegetable) then add food or treats to the liquid. I will add kibble, dog treats, spoonsful of peanut butter, carrots and anything else my dog likes. Sometimes I will also stuff a Kong and place the stuffed Kong into the liquid. Once I have placed the food and treats in the liquid, I will freeze it (it usually takes 24 hours, depending on the size of your bowl). Once it is frozen, I take the giant ice cube outside, take it out of the bowl and put in on the grass in my backyard. Dogs will lick and chew the ice to get to the food. Sometimes they will even push the ice cube around the yard to try to find a “good treat.” Another homemade food toy I like uses a plastic water or soda bottle. Depending on the size of the dog, I will use a small or large bottle. I cut holes in the sides and take the cap off. Next, I fill the bottle with kibble (sometimes I put a few special treats in too). Once the bottle is filled, I let my dog push the bottle around the house or yard. As he pushes the bottle, kibble and treats fall out for him to eat. This is a great toy for mental and physical exercise. As with every toy, make sure your dog does not chew or eat the bottle. If this is the case, this toy is not a good fit for your dog. Not all mental stimulation has to come from a toy. Sometimes I will also do an “Easter egg” hunt for my dogs. Instead of hiding Easter eggs, I will hide kibble and treats around my backyard or in my house. My dogs will spend hours looking for a treat that may have been left behind. This is another way to stimulate your dog mentally and physically. This is a great game to do if your dog will be left alone for a few hours. We all want our dogs to be happy and healthy. By enriching your dog's mind and body with mental and physical exercise, you are enriching their lives. Give it a try, your dog will love you for it. Shannon Coyner Shannon has been a pet lover all her life and a dog trainer for over 20 years. She has spent her life observing, caring for and training animals of all kinds. She has worked in the Bird Department at Marine World Africa USA, and worked as a handler and trainer for an African Serval Cat at Safari West, a private zoo in Santa Rosa, California. She has participated in behavior studies including observations of bald eagles and addax antelope through the San Francisco Zoo and Safari West. Her education includes a Biology Degree, specializing in Zoology from Sonoma State. She is a "Registered Veterinary Technician," a "Certified Professional Dog Trainer" (Knowledge Assessed), a Karen Pryor Academy Certified Training Partner, a member of the "Association of Pet Dog Trainers" and a member of the International Association of Animal Behavior Consultants. Shannon is currently serving as President for the Society of Veterinary Behavior Technicians. Shannon's dog training philosophy revolves around force-free, positive reinforcement, however, her ultimate goal is for healthy happy relationship between pets and their people. Diet, exercise, environment and training all play a significant role in achieving this goal. Shannon is currently the owner of Ventura Pet Wellness and Dog Training Center in Ventura, CA where she works with anxious and fearful dogs privately as well as teaching agility classes (Venturapetwellness.com). Shannon has also started a training website called Truly Force Free Animal Training. :|zpendofcontent|:
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Top Tips for Doggy Sun Protection It’s a gorgeous time of year, perfect for spending time outdoors in the fresh air with a dog by your side. I’m picturing long walks, beach-days and lazy picnics – bliss! But with rising temperatures and bright sunshine comes the risk of sunburn both for you AND your beloved dog. We humans may sometimes turn a blind eye to sun exposure, but our dogs, unfortunately, don’t have a say in the matter – so as a pet owner, it’s your responsibility to keep your doggo well protected from harmful UVA and UVB rays. As the weather heats up, here are some handy sun protection tips for your dog: Avoid taking your dog out in the sun during the hottest part of the day. Between 10am and 4pm is usually a safe bet, but keep an eye on the UV index. When the UV index reaches 3, stay under cover. Remember – even on a cloudy day, you and your dog can still suffer from nasty sun damage! If the UV index is high, shade is great - but indoors is best. If you are planning on being outside and there isn’t a lot of shade available, say in a park or at the beach, purchase a generous-sized beach umbrella or foldable sunshade. And check the sun-protection rating of the material so that you know it will do the job. Consider a doggy sunscreen. Do be sure to track down a veterinary recommended product and don’t use a strong human sunscreen – your dog will potentially lick their fur at some point and ingest some of the product. Always patch test your dog beforehand, and reapply every few hours or after swimming. Purchase a doggy sun-shirt. There are some super cute shirts on the market that provide UVA and UVB protection, which can really help avoid sunburn through fur. Does your dog have a new sunspot or mole on their skin? Inform your vet and keep a close eye on it. Take a picture on your smartphone just to keep track of the spot, and if you see any changes let your vet know immediately. If your dog is unfortunate enough to suffer from sunburn, keep them in a cool, quiet place with plenty of water. Chat with your vet who may be able to recommend a soothing ointment. Please note that if your dog has white fur, pink skin under their fur, white tips or a pale nose, be extra mindful. These pale puppers are far more susceptible to sunburn than other dogs and are at a much higher risk of developing sunspots that can lead to skin cancers. With a bit of planning, care and awareness, you can be sure your dog can have a great summer without the discomfort and pain of sunburn. Be safe and have fun! Jess Tanner Jess is a pet fanatic and blog writer for Pawshake, an online service connecting pet owners with local pet sitters. She has always been a dog owner, but currently is the proud parent of a shelter cat called Benjamin. She has experience as a pet sitter herself and loves finding ways to make the pet sitting process smooth, safe and fun for everyone involved. :|zpendofcontent|:
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We All Scream for Ice Cream, But Is It Safe For Dogs? July is National Ice Cream Month! Nothing says summertime more than cooling off with a delicious frozen treat. But, is it okay to feed your dog ice cream? Or, is there something more canine-friendly to serve up? An occasional lick or two of ice cream may be okay, but only if your dog is not lactose intolerant and does not have a medical issue such as diabetes, obesity, dairy allergies, gastrointestinal issues, etc. For a dog with Canine Epilepsy, a little bit of natural vanilla ice cream can be given post-seizure to help raise sugar levels, but always check with your veterinarian, who is familiar with your dog’s health record, before giving any new foods or treats to be sure they are safe for your pet. When it comes to ice cream, there are actually several reasons why you should resist giving it to your dog: It’s made from milk. Many dogs are intolerant or allergic to dairy and if eaten, it can make them sick. It contains sugar. Also, beware of “low sugar” or “no sugar” versions as they may contain a sugar substitute, including xylitol, which is known to be toxic to dogs. It may be full of flavors and add-ins dogs should not eat such as chocolate, coffee, raisins, nuts, salt, garlic (yes, there is garlic ice cream), alcohol (and yes, there is alcohol-infused ice cream), as these items can be toxic to dogs and top the ASPCA’s list of foods to not feed a dog. (https://www.aspca.org/pet-care/animal-poison-control/people-foods-avoid-feeding-your-pets) So, what’s a pet parent to do when their beloved dogs are drooling for some ice cream? Head on over to the kitchen and whip up healthy alternatives they can eat! You may even discover that you like a few of them, too! All you need is a high-performance blender; some ice cube trays, silicone molds, mini-muffin tins, or ring molds; the ingredients; and a little imagination! Here are some of my FiveSibes favorite homemade frozen treat recipes (adjust ingredient amounts to preferred consistency): Berry Nice! In a blender, whip up fat-free plain organic yogurt with some frozen organic ripe blueberries or strawberries, or, use fresh organic blueberries and strawberries together with the yogurt, crushed ice, and blend, both for tasty and creamy smoothies! You can also pour the mixture into mini-muffin pans or paw print shaped molds, and freeze for a cool treat! Bananas for Peanut Butter! Blend together a banana and some organic creamy peanut butter* with organic plain fat-free yogurt. Spoon into silicone shapes and freeze! (*A note about peanut butters: they are not all dog friendly. Be sure to read the ingredient label to avoid unnecessary sugar, and also no sugar substitutes, such as xylitol, which, as stated above, is known to be toxic to dogs). Pumpkin is an Anytime Flavor! My FiveSibes get pumpkin added to their food all year long to help keep them healthy. Mix a little pumpkin pureé (NEVER pumpkin pie filling) with some organic plain fat-free yogurt, a drizzle of organic maple syrup, a pinch of cinnamon, then pour into the molds and freeze! Pup-Friendly Ice Pops. Blend organic ripe blueberries, strawberries, or seedless watermelon with water, pour into molds, toss in a few cut-up berries or pieces of watermelon, and freeze! Frozen Food. Pureé and freeze some of your canine’s favorite foods, such as home-cooked beef or chicken with a little homemade bone broth, water, or unsweetened organic applesauce. You can even add some veggies to it, like cut-up or pureéd green beans! Salmon is Sweet! Do your dogs love salmon? My Siberian Huskies sure do! Mix some cooked boneless salmon into a little water, spoon into an ice cube tray or bone-shaped mold, sprinkle the tops with crushed treats, and pop into the freezer! With so many healthy alternatives for dog-friendly versions of ice cream to make, you can whip up a new flavor every day! For more delicious ways to make your dog frozen treats, reference reliable online canine recipe sites, such as: Golden Woofs: https://www.sugarthegoldenretriever.com/dog-treat-recipes/ Gone to the Snow Dogs: http://www.gonetothesnowdogs.com/?s=frozen+dog+treats Kol’s Notes: https://kolchakpuggle.com/dog-treat-recipes/frozen-dog-treat-recipes Here’s to a happy summer filled with lots of tasty licks for your favorite canine! Bon(e) Appetit! Dorothy Wills-Raftery Dorothy Wills-Raftery is an award-winning photojournalist and author of EPIC Dog Tales: Heartfelt Stories About Amazing Dogs Living & Loving Life With Canine Epilepsy; the FiveSibes™ Tales children’s books: What’s Wrong With Gibson? Learning About K-9 Epilepsy and Getting Healthy With Harley: Learning About Health & Fitness; and Buddy, the Christmas Husky~Based On A True Holiday Miracle books (ArcticHouse Publishing), as well as the FiveSibes.com, an online encyclopedia for the Siberian Husky breed and Canine Epilepsy information, as well as her international award-winning FiveSibes blog, based on the lives of her five Siberian Huskies. Her work has also appeared in American Pet Magazine, Ruff Drafts, The Sled Dogger, and Hudson Valley Paw Print Magazine. Dorothy is the writer and host of "The Sibe Vibe” Dog Works Radio show. Dorothy is a 9-time Dog Writers of America Association “Excellence” nominee, winning the prestigious Maxwell Medallion in 2017 and 2016 for her writing, photography, and design. Her book EPIC Dog Tales: Heartfelt Stories About Amazing Dogs Living & Loving Life With Canine Epilepsy received the 2018 Independent Press Award for “Excellence” in the Reference Book category and 2017 NYC Big Book Award for “Excellence” in the Animal/Pet book category. Dorothy was also named “Best Author” in 2015 & 2016 by Hudson Valley Magazine and all four books named “Best in Print” by American Pet Magazine, An official International Purple Day® for Epilepsy Ambassador since 2012 and a volunteer case manager for The Wally Foundation-Canine Epilepsy, Dorothy is the creator of the FiveSibes #LiveGibStrong K-9 Epilepsy Awareness campaign and partnered with The Anita Kaufmann Foundation for #Paws4Purple Project, both inspired by her own epileptic Husky, Gibson. In addition to her Siberian Huskies, Dorothy shares her home with her husband, daughter, son-in-law, and grandson. You can follow Dorothy and her FiveSibes on Facebook at FiveSibes: Siberian Husky K9 News & Reviews, on Google + , Twitter, and Instagram(@FiveSibesMom). :|zpendofcontent|:
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Dog Grooming in Summer: The Do’s and Don’ts Summers bring a lot of sunshine, playtime and happy memories for you and your dog. But, it all comes at a cost of sweat, smell, dirt, and grass. Rather than locking out the pooch after a good time together outside (this may discourage the Fido for play), you can find here some helpful summer tips for your dog. There are some do's and don'ts that you can follow to keep yourself stress-free and the Fido happy: 1. Bathing the Dog: Who doesn’t know how much bathing is necessary? Everyone does. However, beware of over-bathing the dog especially when he has a dry or sensitive skin. It can irritate the pooch a lot. You can bathe the dog twice a month, and for dry skin dogs, you may have to cut it short to once a month. 2. Removing Dirt and Bad Odor: To keep the pooch clean and dirt-free, you can use a damp rag (after soaking it in warm water) to wipe away the dirt. To get rid of the bad pet odor, you can use cologne or leave in conditioner that is pet-safe to keep him smelling fresh. 3. Preventing Ticks and Fleas: Summers welcome little monsters—fleas and ticks. Prevent them by using these amazing flea collars that really work for dogs that are prone to getting fleas every season. Prepare some DIY flea-repellent sprays to keep the fleas at bay during the play time. Spray the dog’s entire fur before he steps out of the house. If, accidentally, your pooch has gotten fleas; then the fleas must have entered your house too. Get rid of the flea headache as soon as possible. Remember to avoid bathing the dog after applying any topical tick or flea preventative for about 48 hours. Topical skin products show their effectiveness by getting soaked into the skin. If you bathe the puppy soon after applying the product, your money has gone to waste as the product gets washed away by water. 4. Check out for Little Parasites Regularly: Fleas multiply by leaps and bounds whereas ticks are not that great in numbers. However, ticks can cause life-threatening diseases. Be vigilant in summers to prevent the parasites from harming your pooch. You should regularly check the belly, armpits, at the base of the tail, and around the neck area for these parasites. If you’ve got a wrinkled pug or bulldog, keep a check between the skin layers. You can use flea combs for long-haired dogs to keep the fleas and ticks away. Use preventatives for fleas, ticks, and heartworm that have been recommended by the vet. 5. Get the Dog Groomed: Consult the dog groomer to find an appropriate haircut for your four-legged. It varies according to coat type and hair length that what kind of haircut is suitable for the pooch. Keep the hair short and easy to manage. Not all hairy dogs need shaving of the coat hair. You may opt for a shorter hair than shaving them off completely. The groomer will guide you the best based on the dog’s breed, coat, and hair. 6. De-shedding Treatment: De-shedding treatment rather than shaving the coat is a better option. It will help in the removal of dead skin to keep the pet feeling cool. The Fido can better manage his body temperature after de-shedding treatment. Do you have other summer tips for dogs? Let us know in the comments. Have fun and strengthen your bond with the Fido! Fiona Appleton Fiona Appleton is a Labrador owner. She is the manager of https://ultimatehomelife.com/ that has been developed to help people solve the troubles of pet ownership. She is an active advocate of animal protection campaigns. She wants people to understand that dog-behavior is reflective of our behavior. :|zpendofcontent|:
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Help! My Dog Killed a Squirrel! What Do I Do? A good number of client calls each year start with a question along those lines. You could replace squirrel with bird, rat, gopher, lizard, you name it. Many of us are living so far removed from nature, that we have completely forgotten how life works. The idea that the family dog is a killer, comes as a shock to many. But, dogs are apex predators. That means, they sit on top of the food chain and don’t have natural enemies for whom they are a primary food source. Dogs are the hunters, not the hunted. As such, it is entirely normal for a dog to chase and kill smaller animals. That doesn’t mean your dog is aggressive and will proceed to murdering you or your children in your sleep. You are family. The squirrel is prey. It is also irrelevant if your dog is hungry, at the moment the squirrel comes along. Your dog didn’t chase the squirrel because you didn’t feed enough breakfast. Dogs chase squirrels because they are fun to chase. Dogs tend to enjoy things that assure their survival, domestication didn’t change that. All the things dogs enjoy are part of the predatory hunting sequence: searching, stalking, chasing, fighting, celebration, and consumption. If you want to explore this in more detail, I recommend the online presentation: Tug: A Deeper Perspective. So, what do you do? Tell your dog, he is a good boy. Tell her, she’s a good girl. Pet them and give them a treat. They did their job. Have you ever tried catching a squirrel? That is hard work! Let them know you appreciate their work effort. Sounds weird? It shouldn’t! This is the nature of your dog. Domestication didn’t change that. The question behind the question is of course: Is my dog dangerous to my family? Is my dog aggressive? Maybe. Maybe not. The answer depends entirely on your dog but is in no way related to killing a squirrel. Killing other animals is what your dog was born to do. Appreciate their nature. There is no reason to fear it. Aggression is something entirely different. In the canine behavioral world aggression is defined as a forward behavior—assertiveness. But that is not what most people mean when they say their dog is aggressive. People often call aggressive behaviors driven by fear, aggression, or even growling, or showing teeth, and so on. However, none of those indicate aggression. So, what is aggression? Aggression is the intent to cause injury. But that doesn’t mean any injury caused by a dog is due to aggression. A dog that bites when it is scared, is trying to create space, not injury—the injuries are accidental. Such a dog is not aggressive but can still be very dangerous. A super-friendly dog with poor bite control—the lack of ability to control how hard they bite—can also very dangerous and may need be muzzled on certain occasions. Aggression is a behavior, not a personality trait. When we call a dog aggressive, what we often mean is, the dog is prone to use aggressive behaviors. We are not our actions. Aggression is not what dogs are, it is what they sometimes do. We can teach dogs to be more aggressive or less aggressive through how we interact with them. Aggression is not genetically driven either, tolerance for frustration is genetically driven. Genetics determine how quickly a dog becomes frustrated and how the dog reacts to that frustration. All aggression starts with frustration. We can affect dogs’ behaviors by helping them manage their frustration and teach them how to handle conflict. However, some dogs love conflict and desire for conflict is also a personality trait. A dog that doesn’t know how to engage in appropriate conflict, will become aggressive under the right set of circumstances. While we can’t take away the desire for conflict, we can direct it in a way that avoids more aggression. In contrast, reactivity is a visceral response without intent. The dog just doesn’t know what else to do in a given situation. As such, reducing reactivity is about changing reactive (automatic) responses into reflective (deliberate) responses—teaching a dog to make better choices. Leashes are a prime example of this. There is no such thing as “leash-aggression.” Leashes don’t make dogs aggressive. That’s a common myth. However, restraining a dog will frustrate it and that frustration can result in aggressive behaviors. In case of a leash, simply teaching the dog to have a better relationship with the leash will reduce the frustration and in return remove the reactivity. True aggression is very rare. Of course, a dog could bite you under the right set of circumstances. However, it’s only a bite if it breaks the skin. A puncture is a bite, a scratch or nip isn’t. Dogs have a sophisticated set of weaponry in their mouths. Their use has been refined over thousands of years. If a dog puts its teeth on you and you don’t sustain an injury, you didn’t get lucky that you avoided injury. You were lucky, that your dog didn’t mean to injure you. You are unharmed because your dog chose not to injure you. Of course, accidents can happen. If you play tug with your dog and get nipped by a tooth during play, that is an accident, and not intentional. Just like we can accidentally bump into someone by mistake, dogs can accidentally scratch or nip you, especially during high-arousal activities. So, what about dog fights? Dogs may engage in a scuffle to shut a barking dog up, put it in its place, or punish it for its behavior. Those are their goals. There is no intent to cause injury in those scenarios, although injury or death is possible regardless. For an altercation between dogs to be a fight, at least one participant must have intent to cause injury. Fights amongst dogs are rare because, in the canine world, fighting is evolutionarily undesirable for survival. Because of dog’s teeth and claws, serious injuries are likely in a fight and even the victor can still die of the injuries an hour later or simply be too weak to protect itself from an even weaker competitor. Fights exert energy and injuries can lead to death. For this reason, dogs are evolutionarily very good at conflict resolution and conflict avoidance. It’s in their best interest to avoid fights. Dominance is one of the strategies to avoid fights. Dominance is ritualistic displays to settle disputes over resources while avoiding fighting—fighting comes at a huge risk. Therefore, the term “dominance aggression” is technically incorrect. Dominance is a posturing behavior to avoid fighting. Dominance ends the moment a fight starts. Fighting is aggression in action. Dominance behavior between dogs is only a problem if it is not responded to appropriately. If one party backs off during posturing, there will be no fight. Ralf Weber Ralf Weber is a certified dog trainer and behaviorist. A professional member of the International Association of Canine Professionals (IACP), an AKC evaluator for Puppy S.T.A.R., Canine Good Citizen and Community Canine certifications, author of the dog behavioral book: "If Your Dog Could Talk" and owner of the dog training company Happy Dog Training. Ralf works with clients in Southern California and can be contacted through his website at HappyDogTraining.info. :|zpendofcontent|:
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Crate Training: The Benefits and Proper Use of the Dog Crate To crate or not to crate, that is the question. The answer is simple: Crate your pup or emotionally and behaviorally immature dog! Crating is one component in the many strategies that you will use to bring balance and calm to your pooch. Crating is far more instrumental in your dog’s state of mind than merely potty training. We use a crate daily in APBC’s training programs because it uses a dog’s natural den instincts and gives a dog a safe place to truly rest and relax. Dogs are not people with our distaste for small, enclosed places. They are denning animals that, by choice, are born in a tightly confined area. Have you ever wondered why your dog loves to worm his way under a chair, table, or other tight space? Dogs look for spaces in your home or yard that mimic a den. Dog crates make excellent dens and provide that safe, secure environment dogs crave. Using a crate is appropriate confinement—it’s not punishment. Too many freedoms, too soon, is a recipe for failure. If your dog is young or immature, resistant to the rules, destructive in the home, or sometimes commits acts of aggression in the house, then judicious use of the crate is part of the solution. Until you have the time to devote to your dog’s state of mind, your dog should be confined. In other words, if you are busy, distracted, or want to take a shower, your dog doesn’t get free reign of the house. He has to be put into a safe, confined space like a crate, exercise pen, or kennel. No matter how good your pooch has been doing, unsupervised time in the house or yard is not in your pooch’s best interest. Essentially, whenever your puppy or misbehaving dog is out of his crate or confined space, it’s your time to focus on and supervise your dog and to provide an outlet for his mental and physical energy. That means you only have your dog out with you when you are able to pay attention and follow through. All other times of the day when you are not purposeful and intentional, your dog needs to be appropriately confined. Trust me, the time your dog is in his crate will provide you both with the ability to rest between purpose-driven activities. It’s not that this phase will last forever, but you have to prepare yourself that becoming balanced in your home is a process. Building the right relationship with your dog takes time. If you are meeting the required basics of purpose-driven activity with your pup or misbehaving dog, then the times that are appropriately confined are beneficial, fair, and reasonable. Crate Training Prep for Human Once my dog enters his crate, I do not get him out, regardless of the age of the dog. I don’t pop back in to check on him or peer around the corner at him (he can smell you long before he sees you). This dog is safe, exercised, fed, watered, pottied, loved on… now he needs to rest and sleep. Dogs do not sleep without moving. They squirm, shuffle around, whimper, wake up, and sometimes even cry when they wake up—then they go back to sleep. If you react to every little noise, you are doing them a disservice and not allowing them to comfort themselves and go back to sleep. They would be ignored in their litter, and back to sleep they would go. If their mamas wouldn’t acknowledge every noise made, we shouldn’t either. It’s OK to hear the entire spectrum of noises when you put your pup or immature dog to bed: howling, yapping, crying, whining, whimpering, fever-pitch rantings, you get the idea. Typically, the noise can go on for ten to twenty minutes. Don’t get a dog out until their appointed time in the schedule (more on this later). Period. The rare exception to this would be if my dog had been asleep and quiet for hours before suddenly beginning to scream like a bear is eating him alive inside his crate. That would get my attention, and I would go assess the situation and verify if a bear is, in fact, eating him. If a bear is not in the crate, simply turn and calmly walk away…and reposition your earplugs. If, however, you simply have to get them out because they are throwing a hissy fit that made you believe it was a bear in there, here’s how it should be done. 1. Open the door like usual and do not allow him to bum rush the door. I would wait for a polite pause and invite him out. NO affectionate touch, tone, or eye contact during this time, especially if he is agitated. It’s routine as normal. 2. Put the leash on him immediately and go directly out to the designated potty spot. 3. Then quietly assess the dog to see if a bear did in fact peel the skin off his body. 4. Again, quietly lead him back into the house and return him directly into his crate, as usual. Take the leash off, close the door, and don’t look back as you leave. 5. Yes, since they woke up, they could cry again for a while. Don’t get them out! Don’t acknowledge that fever-pitch state of mind! I know how hard it can be to see this through, but it is so worth it in the end. My Kozi was the hardest dog to crate train in the world—or so I thought until I met a few others that almost convinced me that bears do eat dogs alive in their crates. Most dogs are content in their crates in less than a week with mere ten to twenty-minute crying jags. Kozi howled and screamed for two weeks straight and would cry for almost every moment in his crate. I thought I would die! I had to have my family sleep in our motorhome for two weeks. One weekend they even went to a motel! Kozi was tough to crate train. However, Kozi is my superstar now—he is a very bright, sensitive, and intense little guy! I’m certain that had I not stuck it out, Kozi could have become a neurotic dog with high anxiety. P.S. He does love his crate now! Quiet and calm, happy and peaceful! Crate Training Benefits: ▪ People seriously underestimate a dog’s need for rest, which is his time to think and use his brain. Being a good dog is very hard work! Rest is a critical element in training. Crate time allows a dog to soak up his lessons and recharge and reboot his mindset. ▪ Crate training has been proven to be the fastest and most effective way to housebreak a dog at any age. A dog’s natural instinct is to avoid being near his own waste, so he’ll make an effort to avoid eliminating in his crate. They learn this from their mamas! ▪ Crate training provides a safe, comfortable, and familiar place wherever you go (hotels, vet, groomer, etc.). ▪ Destructive behaviors are often the result of an unsupervised dog being bored or anxious. Using a crate during an owner’s short-term absence eliminates this possibility. Dogs sleep the vast majority of the time when their owners are away anyway. Crating your dog while you’re away or unable to supervise keeps him from being destructive, stops nuisance behaviors, and prevents him from ingesting something that could potentially harm him. Crate Training Dos: ▪ Make sure your crate is not too BIG! When potty training, it is imperative that the crate area your dog resides in is very small! It should only be big enough for a dog to stand up, turn around, and lie down. ▪ Introduce a crate to an older dog by feeding in it. You don’t even have to leave the door closed for this. Just get the dog used to eating in there, and he’ll soon look forward to when you unlatch the door. Move the food bowl deeper and deeper into the crate every day until your dog is happily eating inside. Then one day you can close the door until he’s finished. You can delay opening the door by ten-minute intervals after that. ▪ Lock a dog out of the crate when it’s not in use. Remove your dog, lock the door, and let him watch you toss a few yummy treats in there. Then walk away. He’ll be counting the minutes until he can get in there! Then pop him in the crate while you do a quick errand or take a shower. Remember, the crate is not negotiable, but you are willing to make it fun. ▪ Adjust the location of the crate depending upon your dog. Some dogs do well in social areas like the living room; other dogs do better in a bedroom or basement where they are not distracted. ▪ Utilize the crate any time you are gone. ▪ Put a great chew toy in the crate like a Kong or a Busy Buddy or a pig’s hoof. Use nothing digestible; we want the chewie to relieve stress, not contribute to the need for a dog to have an accident. ▪ Never make a big deal about letting your dog in or out of his crate. Wait until he’s calm before releasing him from his crate and avoid giving praise or affection until he’s relaxed. Crate Training Don’ts: ▪ Never consider or use it as a form of punishment; rather consider it more like a safe place or puppy sitter—as long as it’s a reasonable amount of time. ▪ Don’t leave bedding in the crate if your dog is a destructive chewer. They can get an obstruction if swallowing bedding. ▪ Don’t leave your dog in his crate for extended periods of time beyond what their age supports. For a dog under a year old, the general rule of thumb is age in months plus one hour. For example, a three-month-old puppy shouldn’t be in a crate longer than four hours during the daytime. The nighttime stretch is generally an additional two to three hours to that general rule until they are making it through the night completely. Alyson Rodges Alyson Rodges is a dog trainer specializing in puppies, and all things DOODLE. She loves people as much as their pooches and teaches the necessary skills for them both to enjoy a balanced life with each other. Aly’s approach is rooted in relationship, not commands alone. Aly trains multiple dogs at once in her own home, complete with teenagers, a bit of chaos, and a lot of real life. Aly’s Puppy Boot Camp is located on the gorgeous central coast of California near Pismo Beach. You can find out about Aly at www.alysonrodges.com or email her at info@alysonrodges.com :|zpendofcontent|:
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Labeling Dog Behavior: Helpful or Harmful? Have you ever been labeled “rude” when you were actually shy? Or labeled“mean” when you just had a really bad day? Most of us have been labeled at one point in our lives and they are usually hurtful and untrue. Unfortunately, dogs are also often labeled and the labels can cause more harm than good. Every day I work with dogs that bark, lunge or growl at people, dogs or novel objects. Commonly these dogs are labeled as “aggressive” when in fact they are usually fearful, anxious or shy. When dogs (and people) are put into situation that make them uncomfortable they will sometimes react with a survival response of “fight.” When people “fight” they will yell, hit or become violent in other ways. When dogs “fight”, they bark, growl or lunge. Because this response is often labeled as “aggression” the dogs are treated as if they are “bad dogs” rather than considering they are afraid. Many of these dogs can overcome their fear if they are treated with compassion and empathy. Sadly, some people will hurt these dogs to stop the “aggression” instead of dealing with the fear or anxiety. When we describe the behavior for what it is, “fearful of dogs/people” instead of labeling them “aggressive,” it is easy to have compassion for them. Many time people will label a dog as “stubborn” because they won’t do what the person wants. Typically, these dogs are not actually “stubborn” but they may be distracted, worried or confused. I will commonly work with people who tell me that their dog is “stubborn” but in reality, the dog actually does not know what the person wants because they have not been taught properly or thoroughly. If someone was talking to me in a language I did not understand, I may appear “stubborn” when in reality I just did not understand what the person was saying to me. Although people believe that a label in a proper description of a person, dog or behavior, it is actually a judgment. Unless we take time to understand why a behavior is happening, we don’t really know why it is happening. If a person sleeps a lot, they may be labeled “lazy” when in fact that person may have just undergone a treatment of chemotherapy. Instead of jumping to conclusion and labeling our dogs, we should take time to understand them. Learning how to read dog body language is the first step to understanding why a behavior is happening. Since dogs don’t use language to communicate, they use their body. Next time you are tempted to label your dog, take a minute to watch his body language, look around at the environment and be compassionate about what he might be feeling. Once you take time to really understand, you may find it hard to label so quickly. Shannon Coyner Shannon has been a pet lover all her life and a dog trainer for over 20 years. She has spent her life observing, caring for and training animals of all kinds. She has worked in the Bird Department at Marine World Africa USA, and worked as a handler and trainer for an African Serval Cat at Safari West, a private zoo in Santa Rosa, California. She has participated in behavior studies including observations of bald eagles and addax antelope through the San Francisco Zoo and Safari West. Her education includes a Biology Degree, specializing in Zoology from Sonoma State. She is a "Registered Veterinary Technician," a "Certified Professional Dog Trainer" (Knowledge Assessed), a Karen Pryor Academy Certified Training Partner, a member of the "Association of Pet Dog Trainers" and a member of the International Association of Animal Behavior Consultants. Shannon is currently serving as President for the Society of Veterinary Behavior Technicians. Shannon's dog training philosophy revolves around force-free, positive reinforcement, however, her ultimate goal is for healthy happy relationship between pets and their people. Diet, exercise, environment and training all play a significant role in achieving this goal. Shannon is currently the owner of Ventura Pet Wellness and Dog Training Center in Ventura, CA where she works with anxious and fearful dogs privately as well as teaching agility classes (Venturapetwellness.com). Shannon has also started a training website called Truly Force Free Animal Training. :|zpendofcontent|:
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Puppy Power: Yes, You Can Raise Littermates Together! Charles M. Schulz summed it up best when he said, “Happiness is a warm puppy.” So, if happiness is one puppy, then more must be bliss! Having raised three Siberian Husky puppies at one time, I can certainly attest to that bliss, sometimes zany bliss, but bliss just the same! So, where does one raising multiple puppies start the training process? First, let me start off by saying there are so many varied experiences and advice from others shared on a variety of sites across the Internet that sometimes it can be confusing and conflicting to know which way to go. Whenever seeking training and behavior advice for your dog, always verify your source to be sure you are getting the best and most accurate information possible. I have seen some really outrageous online conversations about not raising multiple puppies from the same litter. I say, why not?! My daughter and I not only raised three puppies (two girls and a boy) from the same litter, but we had two other young Huskies, a two-year-old girl and a one-year-old boy, already in our family. A popular question I am asked is, “How did you do it?” To which I reply, "throw away the rulebook, because when raising multiple puppies together, there really is no hard and fast one-size-fits-all rule." But, there are some important things to keep in mind. Here are some of my FiveSibes™ tips: Enroll in School. Puppy kindergarten class is a great way for you and your family to bond with your puppies, socialize them, and get helpful tips on everything from teaching commands to teething and potty training. Check with your veterinarian, groomer, breeder, community dog park patrons, and your local rescue or shelter staff to ask for their recommendations on a reputable trainer and canine behaviorist. Have Patience. When puppies are crying at night, chewing up the woodwork, or are decorating your floor with their puppy poop, you will need patience. I say just breathe, embrace it, and enjoy the ride! In reality, it is such a short period of time before puppy shenanigans will be a thing of the past. Quality Time. While it is important to teach them respect for each other as a bonded group, it is just as important to give them each their own quality time to bond with you. It is also especially important to carve out some solo time for the dogs already in your family, so they can be assured they are still your best friends. It also helps to ease any stress they may be feeling with a whole bunch of young’uns invading their territory. Positive Reinforcement. This is my mantra for all things canine. With positive reinforcement, training is much faster and pups are happy and proud with each goal they achieve, the same as with us humans! Don’t Fear the Crate. When they are ready, separate them into their own crates, positioned facing each other. A crate not only offers a safe haven for puppies, but most will love their “den” well into their dog years. Training Tools. A frozen (creamy) peanut butter filled rubber treat toy will become your best friend and help to keep the puppies happily occupied. High-Value Treats. Treats are our secret weapon! Make sure they are not only wholesome but also something über-special that they do not get at any other time to ensure you will have their undivided attention and desire to perform commands upon request! Be Consistent. Repetition—keeping to the same schedule each day—is truly the path to success with teaching multiple young pups at the same time. By being consistent, it lays down the guidelines to successful training. Sense of Humor. This goes without saying! Especially when one puppy successfully does his/her duty on a training pad and, while you are happily praising the proud pup, the other two decide it is more fun to rip that soiled pad apart in a spontaneous game of Tug o’ war, spilling its load (pardon the pun) everywhere! Record the Memories. Be sure in the midst of all the craziness to take time to photograph and videotape the growing pups. When the pups are all grown, you will love to look back at their puppy days and see how the family all came together. To watch siblings grow up with each other, having the security of being able to play together, eat together, and sleep together—never being separated from each other—is truly a special kind of joy. Dorothy Wills-Raftery Dorothy Wills-Raftery is an award-winning photojournalist and author of EPIC Dog Tales: Heartfelt Stories About Amazing Dogs Living & Loving Life With Canine Epilepsy; the FiveSibes™ Tales children’s books: What’s Wrong With Gibson? Learning About K-9 Epilepsy and Getting Healthy With Harley: Learning About Health & Fitness; and Buddy, the Christmas Husky~Based On A True Holiday Miracle books (ArcticHouse Publishing), as well as the FiveSibes.com, an online encyclopedia for the Siberian Husky breed and Canine Epilepsy information, as well as her international award-winning FiveSibes blog, based on the lives of her five Siberian Huskies. Her work has also appeared in American Pet Magazine, Ruff Drafts, The Sled Dogger, and Hudson Valley Paw Print Magazine. Dorothy is the writer and host of "The Sibe Vibe” Dog Works Radio show. Dorothy is a 9-time Dog Writers of America Association “Excellence” nominee, winning the prestigious Maxwell Medallion in 2017 and 2016 for her writing, photography, and design. Her book EPIC Dog Tales: Heartfelt Stories About Amazing Dogs Living & Loving Life With Canine Epilepsy received the 2018 Independent Press Award for “Excellence” in the Reference Book category and 2017 NYC Big Book Award for “Excellence” in the Animal/Pet book category. Dorothy was also named “Best Author” in 2015 & 2016 by Hudson Valley Magazine and all four books named “Best in Print” by American Pet Magazine, An official International Purple Day® for Epilepsy Ambassador since 2012 and a volunteer case manager for The Wally Foundation-Canine Epilepsy, Dorothy is the creator of the FiveSibes #LiveGibStrong K-9 Epilepsy Awareness campaign and partnered with The Anita Kaufmann Foundation for #Paws4Purple Project, both inspired by her own epileptic Husky, Gibson. In addition to her Siberian Huskies, Dorothy shares her home with her husband, daughter, son-in-law, and grandson. You can follow Dorothy and her FiveSibes on Facebook at FiveSibes: Siberian Husky K9 News & Reviews, on Google + , Twitter, and Instagram(@FiveSibesMom). :|zpendofcontent|:
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